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Tuesday, October 27, 2015

Kyrgyzstan: Edelweiss and the Legend of the Broken Heart

Lilya Kas'yanova
Lilya Kas'yanova, one of Kyrgyzstan's finest guides, is passionate about the history, art and craft of her country. She regularly contributes articles to this website. A graduate in Linguistics and Intercultural Communications from I. Arabaev Kyrgyz State University, she is also a keen photographer and hiker. 

Kyrgyz nomads recite a wonderful, but sorrowful love story about a broken heart and edelweiss.

In the twilight of time, a maiden, who was as fair as a rose, dwelt in the southeastern part of the Issyk-Kul’ hollow. The time was ripe for her to be married, and she was mobbed by a great many eligible suitors.

The young woman, spoilt with exuberant and constant attention, decided to delay marrying. At first, just for the fun of it, she wanted to test the bachelors’ mettle, and she found the means of doing it.

Edelweiss felt brooch from Tumar Studio, Bishkek. Image: Lilya Kas'yanova
“I will marry the man who can find a rare and splendid edelweiss for me!” she announced.

The maid knew for sure that it would not be simple to comply with her wish. Edelweiss grow in difficult to access places, high in the mountains, on forbidding crags.

The bachelors gave up without even going flower hunting. Some did not have enough courage; some turned their attention to other desirable alliances.

Only one youth took up the challenge of obtaining an edelweiss and thereby finding a way to the heart of the inaccessible beauty. That venturesome man also caught the fancy of the radiant, wilful beauty.

However, she was determined to follow through with the challenge: “He has to obtain an edelweiss for me, and then I will reveal my soul to him and become his wife!”

The love-struck man set out in search of the mysterious flower of love, and never returned.

Edelweiss in a wall mosaic, Tamga sanatorium. Image: Lilya Kas'yanova
Many days passed. The maiden waited the return of her young man. Time and again she blamed herself for sending her beloved to his doom. She could not endure his absence any longer: with her loyal friends she went in search of him.

They searched for a long time, and, ultimately, found him. The brave youth was dead: he was like an ice statue, having died of exposure. But in his frozen hand, there was a snowy edelweiss - symbol of triumphant love.

Only then did the maiden fully understand that she would not be able to withstand the bitterness of eternal parting with her beloved.

She could not imagine her life without him.

Heavy with sorrow, the unfortunate maiden ripped her heart out of her chest, and it turned into a splintered rock.

Broken Heart rock in Jety-Oguz valley
In Kyrgyzstan’s Jety-Oguz valley the Broken Heart rock still stands today.

And the magnificent snow-white edelweiss still blooms in the mountains above the valley – a symbol of sorrow and love.

Related posts:
Kyrgyzstan: Jety-Oguz and One-of-a-Kind Health Resort
Jamilia: A Kyrgyz Love Story
Kyrgyzstan's Fairy Tale Canyon
Kyrgyzstan: A Tale of Burana Tower
Kyrgyz Blues

Tuesday, October 13, 2015

Fashion's Obsession with Central Asian Design

Osman Yousefzada's ikat gown
It seems the fashion industry's fascination with Central Asian designs is unquenchable. The recent New York and London collections were peppered with ikat and suzani motifs.

Although the origins of ikat are unknown, it is in Central Asia's Ferghana Valley that this weaving technique, practised and refined for generations, is flourishing.

Ikat differs from tie-dyeing in that the pattens are dyed onto the threads before the fabric is woven. (In tie-dyeing, the fabric is woven first and then the resist bindings are applied to the fabric which is later dyed). 

British designer Osman Yousefzada's spring 2016 collection recently graced London Fashion Week.

In his trademark sculptural style, Osman's collection was striking. His pieces included bold evening gowns, mini dresses and shirts.

Over in New York, Reem Accra's gorgeous luxe evening wear had taken inspiration from suzani patterns.  

Suzani derives from the Persian word for needle. However, for textile lovers, the word is synonymous with the glories of Uzbek embroidery. Stitched cooperatively by women and girls for centuries as part of their dowries, suzanis today remain a significant decorative and cultural art in Uzbekistan.

In home wares, ikat has moved beyond cushions and upholstery and is now decorating floors in gorgeous ikat and suzani patterned carpets.

Since Oscar de la Renta introduced ikat into his 2005 collection, Central Asian patterns have demonstrated remarkable staying power - undoubtedly because the beauty of the design and workmanship is timeless.

Josephine Keir Ltd suzani carpet


Related posts:  Ikat Porcelain Tableware
The Story of Uzbek Silk Production: Step by Step
Ferghana Valley Silk Ikats: Tying the Clouds
Symbols in Stitches: Uzbek Suzanis
Valentino Haute Couture Meets Suzani
Suzanis as Upholstery: the Brilliance of Bokja Design
The Silk Road Inspires Piaget's Secrets and Lights Collection
The Fantasy World of Uzbek Textile Artist Dilyara Kaipova