Tuesday, 14 May 2013

Hiking with Vasiliy Eremin in the Chimgan Mountain Range, near Tashkent

uzbekistan hiking, uzbekistan craft tours
Vasiliy on a summer hike in Chimgan
Chimgan is where Uzbeks head to escape the summer heat, indulge their passion for winter sports (skiing and snowboarding) and hike in the glorious mountain ranges during spring and autumn. Located 85 kms east of Tashkent, Chimgan is on the spurs of the Chatkal range of the western Tien Shan mountains, in the  Ugam-Chatkal National Park. The main peak of the entire mountain area, Greater Chimgan, is an impressive 3309 metres.

The area was already popular in Tsarist times: the Governor of Turkestan built his country house there.  Later, Russian army doctors had a hospital built to take advantage of the healing properties of mountain air.

It is also where Uzbeks have had their dachas for generations, grown vegetables and fruits and pickled them for winter.

Last October I spent a marvellously clear autumn day hiking around the area near Beldersoy with Vasiliy Eremin. A Moscow-trained teacher of the accordion and other musical instruments, Vasiliy's passion is mountains.

uzbekistan hiking, uzbekistan birdwatching, uzbekistan holidays
Vasiliy Eremin on a late-summer hike, Chimgan
He hikes year-round and knows this region like the back of his hand. Vasily is excellent in naming plants and trees (in English) along the way. If he didn't know it, he checked his Russian-English dictionary app to ensure my query was answered!

The beginning of the trail was steep and stony as we hiked up to the Mramornaya river (altitude1500m) then followed the stream to the Urta Kumbel Pass (1850m) then down to the Beldersay river gorge. Vasiliy had prepared a delicious picnic lunch of non (Uzbek bread), cheese and salami, plus kishmish (sweet, small raisins from his garden).

After lunch we hiked up to the second pass, Chet Kumbel, 1880m. The views of the Western Tien Shan mountain range were beautiful. The landscape was more forested, the silence and stillness perfect. We simply walked along companionably, crossed the cable car station and then back down to the hotel.

uzbekistan hiking, uzbekistan birdwatching, uzbekistan holidays
Vasiliy is an all-season hiker
Chimgan is also a special place for bird watching. Ornithologists have noted over 40 species in the area including the tawny owl, the Egyptian vulture, the blue-whistling thrush, the white-capped bunting and the red-headed bunting. (The first book on Uzbek birds in a bilingual English/Russian edition has just been published).

If hiking or birdwatching appeals to you, Uzbek Journeys can arrange two and three-day excursions to Chimgan staying at the Beldersay resort hotel. And, if you like, Vasiliy may bring his guitar.

Related post: White Silk Road - Snowboarding Afghanistan

Tuesday, 7 May 2013

Living Shrines of Uyghur China - Exhibition at Rubin Gallery, New York

mazar taklamakan desert, central asian tours
Lisa Ross's image Black Garden (An Offering) ©2013 Studio Lisa Ross
I first came across Lisa Ross' arresting images of her journeys along the holy places of the Taklamakan desert in Steppe Magazine's 2008 summer issue.

New Yorkers are lucky that the Rubin Museum of Art is showcasing her photographs of mazars in the remote deserts of Xinjiang in western China. The exhibition, titled Living Shrines of Uyghur China, runs until 8 July.

Mazar, which literally means ‘a place for visit’ or ‘place of paying homage’, is a Sufi shrine, adorned with small devotional offerings that mark a prayer or visit. Muslim saints, Sufi poets or healers may be buried there. Or perhaps the mazar marks a holy person's stopping or resting spot.

Uyghur pilgrims have visited the mazars of the Taklamakan desert for over ten centuries, decorating the shrines with ornaments, fabric, amulets, mirrors etc as they prayed.

Cover of Ross' book documenting mazar. Available online
Ms. Ross spent over 8 years exploring the area with assistance from Uyghur ethnographer Rahile Dawut and French historian Alexandre Papas. Her photographs are astonishing, respectful and lyrical. Most sites are not identified, not just because of the sensitivity of the area, but also to protect the sites.

If you are unable to visit the museum, you can share Ms. Ross' experience of the desert by viewing the photographs at her online gallery, where you can also purchase a copy of the book.

Related posts: Rosemary Sheel's Images of Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan
Kyrgyzstan's Quest for Historical Photographs


Tuesday, 23 April 2013

Tashkent: A City of Refuge

tashkent evacuation during WWII, uzbekistan tours
Anna Akhmatova in 1922: portrait by Kuzma Petrov-Vodkin
Tashkent has long had the reputation as a refuge for foreigners: food was more available and the generosity of the city's residents was legendary.

During the famine of 1920-1921, writer and teacher Alexander Neverov, made a harrowing journey from the Volga region to Tashkent to obtain food for his family. This journey became the inspiration of his novel City of Bread, which is considered a classic of early Soviet literature.

In the summer and autumn of 1941, as German armies advanced with alarming speed across the Soviet Union, the Soviet leadership embarked on a desperate attempt to safeguard its industrial and human resources.

Soviet authorities transported people and industry away from the western war fronts into the relative safety of their eastern lands. The Urals, Siberia, the Middle Volga, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Kazakhstan together received 16 million evacuees, with Tashkent a favoured destination. It remains the largest organised movement of a civilian population in history.

Rebecca Manley's book To The Tashkent Station brilliantly reconstructs the evacuation of Soviet civilians in one of the most dramatic episodes of World War II. Manley paints a vivid picture of this epic wartime saga: the chaos that erupted in towns large and small as German troops approached, the overcrowded trains that trundled eastward, and the desperate search for sustenance and shelter in Tashkent.

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Cover of To The Tashkent Station
Sophia Abidor, originally from Odessa recalls:  "In spring 1942 my husband's parents, Golda and her family, my mother, my sister and I moved to Tashkent, Uzbekistan. Evacuated people were accommodated in the houses of local people, Uzbeks. They were waiting for trains at railway stations. An Uzbek woman took us to her home. They had a big yard and a house divided into two parts: one for men and one for women. My mother, my sister, my son and I were accommodated in a room in the women's part of the house.

I became a 3rd-year student at Tashkent Medical University. My sister passed the entrance exams to Tashkent Credit Economy College and was admitted to the Faculty of Industrial Economy. My mother went to work as a laborer at a tank plant. I had classes in the morning, and my sister started at 3 in the afternoon. We took turns looking after the child. In the evening our mother looked after the boy, and we could do our homework".

Among the evacuees were the intellectual and artistic elite:  doctors, scientists, economists, playwrights, poets, actors, film directors, and composers were evacuated, often in their professional guilds, along with their supporting infrastructure.  Moscow's State Jewish Theatre and its Theatre of Revolution relocated to Tashkent, as did the Leningrad Conservatory and Kiev's Polytechnic.

In 1943 the great Russian poet, Anna Akhmatova, finished the first draft of her masterpiece Poem Without a Hero in Tashkent at the Hostel for Moscow Writers at 7 Karl Marx Street. Alexei Tolstoi continued work on his play Ivan the Terrible there.

uzbekistan tours, silk road art craft tours
Faina Ranevskaya
Mikhail Bulgakov's widow and literary executor Yelena Sergeyevna fled to Tashkent in 1942 with the manuscript of The Master and Margarita and hid it there. Published only in 1966, the novel is a critique of Soviet society and its literary establishment. The celebrated Soviet actress Faina Ranevskaya, Leonid  Nikolayev (Shostakovich's teacher at the Leningrad Conservatory) and Belarussian poet Jakob Kolas were also part of this massive evacuation.

(As an aside: Igor Savitsky, founder of the Savitsky collection in Nukus, was evacuated along with the entire faculty and staff of Moscow’s Surikov Institute to Samarkand in 1942).

Of course there were many hardships: Uzbeks were forced to share their dwellings, prices in the bazaars rose and the influx of people put enormous strain on the city's resources. There were inevitable tensions. Some evacuees were homeless. Over 30,000 children were evacuated to Tashkent without their parents, many of whom were or became orphaned. Famously, an Uzbek blacksmith, Shaahmed Shamakhmudov adopted 15 orphaned children from the USSR's western republics. Many other Uzbeks adopted children during those years.

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Shaahmed Shamakhmudov and some of his 15 adopted children
Australia's ABC Hindsight radio program aired an excellent feature The Tashkent Ark in 2012. Historians and those who were evacuated as children to Tashkent, and who are now resident in Australia, speak of their experiences. Download the audio file (right mouse click and then 'save link as' to your desktop, so you can keep the program: I am not sure how long it will be available from the ABC).

Post-war, the tradition continued as Tashkent accepted over 11,000 political refugees following the Greek Civil War of 1946 - 1949.

In March 1953 after the expiry of Alexander Solzhenitsyn's sentence, he was sent to internal exile for life at Kok-Terek in the northeastern region of Kazakhstan. His undiagnosed cancer spread until, by the end of the year, he was close to death. However, in 1954, he was permitted to be treated in a hospital in Tashkent, where his tumour went into remission. His experiences there became the basis of his novel Cancer Ward and also found an echo in the short story The Right Hand.

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Based on his time in a Tashkent hospital
Following the devastating Tashkent earthquake of 1966, which destroyed most of the old city and made over 300,000 residents homeless, again the people of Tashkent opened their homes to fellow citizens.

As visitors to the city today, you will also be struck by the warmth and respect that ordinary Tashkent people demonstrate. They are heirs to a grand tradition.

Related posts: The Greek Community of Uzbekistan
Tashkent's Soviet Buildings
48 Hours in Tashkent
Materials source: Centropa.org for Sophia Abidor's story

Wednesday, 10 April 2013

Afghan Art - Tradition & Continuity at the Museum of Islamic Art, Doha

Parwin Raufy, wood carver at Turquoise Mountain
Here is good news coming out of Afghanistan: the revival of traditional arts, craft and architecture.

Turquoise Mountain was established in 2006 in Kabul, under the patronage of HRH The Prince of Wales and the President of Afghanistan. The organisation founded an Institute of Traditional Afghan Arts and Architecture with four craft schools – calligraphy and miniature painting, woodwork, jewellery, and ceramics – and has undertaken a major urban regeneration project in Murad Khane, the centre of the old city of Kabul.

In a conflict-ridden society with a debilitated economy, Turquoise Mountain provides education and employment for over 400 students, teachers, engineers, architects, and construction workers.

An outstanding exhibition, titled Ferozkoh, showcasing 37 works of students and teachers from Turquoise Mountain opened on 20 March in Doha's iconic, I.M Pei-designed Museum of Islamic Art. It runs until 22 June and if you are travelling via Qatar to anywhere this should be your first stop.

The exhibition's theme is the preservation of Islamic art in the modern world. It showcases four of the great empires of Afghanistan and their material culture - the Ghaznavids, Timurids, Mughal and Safavids.  (The Timurid empire was founded by Uzbekistan's national hero Amir Timur and the Mughal empire by his descendant Babur).

The Afghan artists, who visited Doha in 2012, have used the MIA permanent collection as inspiration for their own works. During their time at the museum, they researched the collection, kept visual diaries and had the freedom to experience the rich variety of Islamic art in the museum.

Afghan work on paper from the Ferozkoh exhibtion
Each artist proposed ideas for objects that they would design and create when they returned to Kabul. Objects from the MIA collection have been twinned with 37 objects created by the Turquoise Mountain students and teachers.

According to the MIA's publicity "these works demonstrate how Afghan artisans have renewed their traditions through effort, wit, skill and imagination. It symbolises, in the most positive way, a deep sense of Afghan pride.

It brings together artisans working in very different traditions using different materials - from calligraphic designs chiselled into walnut, to ceramic bowls thrown by potters but carved by woodworkers. The students and teachers dedicate themselves to Islamic art, and many are absolute masters of their crafts. This is true of each one of the pieces for this exhibition".

Watch the inspiring 2-minute video clip below about the exhibition. You may also consider supporting the artists by purchasing their exquisite works through the Turquoise Mountain website, which includes brief bios of the artists. 
 [If the clip does not appear on your device, view it here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qfCLJFL4KB0]

Related posts: White Silk Road - Snowboarding Afghanistan 
Turkmen Jewellery at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art 
Islamic Galleries Reopen at New York's Met




Related posts: White Silk Road - Snowboarding Afghanistan 
Turkmen Jewellery at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art 
Islamic Galleries Reopen at New York's Met

Wednesday, 3 April 2013

Kyrgyzstan's Quest for Historical Photographs

kyrgyzstan photography, kyrgyzstan tours
Kyrgyz shepherd on highland pasture, 1958
Kyrgyzstan's Union of Photojournalists, concerned about the lack of a central, photographic repository of the nation, has launched a crowd-sourced website to collect historical photos in one place accessible to all.

Vlad Ushakov, one of the founders of The Kyrgyz Photo Archive, told EurasiaNet “We offer all internet users an opportunity to create the history of our country themselves. The motto of the website is: ‘The country's history in photos, the history of photography in the country."

There are almost 2000 photos already on the site. Each photo appears with historical information whenever possible, including the year, location and name of the photographer. Some are borrowed from other online sources, such as the Library of Congress, but this appears to be the first attempt to amass such a collection in one place.

This is a project well worth supporting. Perhaps some readers have photographs stored in albums from family holidays at Issyk Kul? If so, simply register and then upload your images and contribute to the history of this small nation.

kyrgyzstan photography, kyrgyzstan art tours
Kyrgyz education campaign, 1974
If you do not read Russian, you can still enjoy the background information that accompanies each image. Simply visit http://translate.google.com/, select Russian to English in the language fields, and enter http://foto.kg/ in the Russian section, and voilĂ  the website appears in English.

It is a fascinating collection: some images date back to the mid-19th century when the majority of Kyrgyz were nomads. The text accompanying each image is comprehensive and helps the reader understand the social and historical context of the time.

View the Kyrgyz Photo Archive.

Related posts: Tours to Kyrgyzstan
Rosemary Sheel's Images of Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan
Jacques Dupâquier's Images of Tashkent, 1956
Max Penson: Uzbek Photography Between Revolution and Tradition 
Khudaybergen Divanov - Father of Uzbek Photography